Grooming Tips

Grooming Tips for

the pet Coton de Tulèar

My experience grooming Cotons consists of tips I have picked up through the years and a brief apprenticeship at a grooming shop in Charlotte. Here are some helpful hints:

I have bred Cotons for about 13 years and have 9 currently. Cotons are tricky when discussing grooming, as some take significantly more care than others. Some have thicker, fuller coats, and some have more "single" coats that are easier to take care of. During the period of time, 6 to 12 months of age, when the coat is changing from puppy soft to adult, (still soft but a little coarser), the mats form overnight. During this period brushing must become a habit. Sitting on the couch or using the grooming table, brushing is almost pleasurable or therapeutic for me. If you don't let the coat get matted, it will be pleasurable for the dog as well. Use your fingers to gently pull apart a mat, reassuring your dog verbally that this is not punishment, and see how much you can loosen before you take a comb or brush to it. You will want a "slicker" brush with soft bristles, a pin brush and a good metal comb. For the brushes I like Chris Christensen's products (shampoos and conditioners too) and the #1 All Systems comb.

Before bathing, check the ears. Pull out any hair in the ear canal, and use a cotton ball dipped in alcohol to swipe the ear clean. Use a flea comb and gently comb the "goobers" in the corner of the eyes out. Then take a pin brush (not one with balls at the end of the pins) and go over the coat gently. It is extremely important to remember to brush the mats out before bathing. You do not want to wash in a way that will tighten the mats and make them harder to remove. (If the mats are too massive you will need to take the dog to the groomer to have them removed or have the dog shaved). Thinning shears can be used across a mat to loosen it and make it easier to remove. Make sure the water is warm but not too warm. I like to use dog shampoo for white coats, and use a shampoo that is tearless around the head. I like natural products for shampooing and conditioning.

When working with a puppy, use tearless shampoo. Try to keep a hand on the puppy at all times as it helps the pup to feel secure. Shampooing should be done with a squishy motion rather than rubbing. You can actually create mats if you rub the wrong way. Rinse thoroughly! Then rinse again. Shampoo left on the skin can cause irritation. It may be beneficial to use a conditioner or creme rinse as well. Again, rinse thoroughly, or the conditioner will cause the hair to mat. To dry the dog, I blot or wrap the dog with towels (and sometimes use a fan rather than a hairdryer but a hairdryer on low is okay).

Many owners prefer to keep the dog in a puppy or "teddy" cut. If you go to a groomer, you need to be able to communicate what it is you want your dog to look like when the grooming is complete. Be very specific. A teddy cut usually means 1 1/2" to 2" all over the body and legs with a rounded face (using a 2 comb or #4 or #5 blade). You want the sanitary area shaved, and the bangs clipped in a way that helps the dog to see but still looks natural. This can be done with thinning shears and trimming hair between the eyes. Nails should be trimmed regularly. Trim hair between paws carefully. Start your puppy out early by visiting the groomer's shop with the puppy with no grooming involved so that s/he can be introduced in a non-threatening way. The puppy will hear dogs barking, dryers or fans (which can be very loud), and smell foreign smells. Let the staff pet and treat the puppy in a positive way. Interaction in this way can be the first steps of positive conditioning.

Having your dog trimmed, does not mean that you don't have to brush regularly...the coat will still mat. I do suggest a spray of water or conditioner when brushing so the job goes more smoothly (i.e. less static and resistance). When I instruct new puppy-buyers on the art of brushing, I prefer a slicker over a pin brush and teach to pull the hair up from the bottom and use the slicker to gently brush down from the section pulled up, so that they are not going against the skin as much. (I use two slickers, one with widely spaced teeth and one with the teeth closer placed for finishing). Again, use your fingers to loosen any mats (pulling them apart) before you brush. It is handy to have a good teflon or greyhound comb for helping with the mats, but there is a tendency to pull too hard and hurt the dog if thick mats are present. Using thinning shears on a tightly packed mat helps immensely. If you want to keep the coat long, then you should get used to brushing daily and learn where the main trouble spots are, i.e. under the ears, tail and in creases of legs. I would expect the dog to be brushed after coming in from outside when he or she has been playing in a natural area and have a velcro'd collection of flora imbedded all over, and this part can be done relatively easily with a pin brush. Mats love to form around cut blades of grass or small sticks. You can try sprinkling corn starch baby powder over the coat as that sometimes restricts some of the matting.

Another thing is that often a small amount of feces might stick to the anal area. This needs to be checked frequently as it is not uncommon for the area to turn red and even blisters to form if the feces is against the skin for even a short period of time. If the area does become irritated, soak gently in a warm water bath and use Neosporin or Bag Balm to ease the irritation. Of course, keep the area trimmed and clean.

Tear stains are a problem. First, puppies often have tear staining which appears to relate to teething. Often this staining will go away once permanent dentition is achieved. If your adult dog has noticeable tear stains, you have two choices. You can just get used to them, or you can begin a daily routine. Your daily practice will involve removing the oxidized tears with a cotton ball (I like to dip in Ark Naturals "Eyes So Bright"), using a flea comb to comb out the "goobers", and applying Vaseline below the eye to repel the tears. You may need to have the vet look to see if there are any lashes growing into the eye and causing irritation or if a tear duct is blocked. Barbara Bird's informative website includes more information on staining, (see below). Using bottled/distilled water for drinking, rather than tap water, decreases the problems of oxidation. Feel free to try products specifically formulated for removing tear stains, but none have worked satisfactorily in my experience. I do like "Eyes So Bright" as it is a natural product, but it is not going to reduce the staining. There are also home remedies involving milk of magnesia, etc. I haven't tried them so I can't remark on their success.

Brush teeth regularly or have dental checks regularly. Plaque and tartar build up rapidly, especially in small breeds. If plaque and tartar get too bad, the resulting infection can actually shorten your dog's life. There are several types of "brushes" or pads...find which you prefer. A plain gauze pad wrapped around your finger and rubbed against the teeth may be all that is needed, and is usually not too annoying to the dog. I use Oxyfresh Pet Oral Hygiene Solution in the drinking water and have had good results.

For more information on keeping white coats white, dematting and fluff drying, go to Barbara Bird's grooming site: http://www.bichonfriseusa.com/ref/demattingbbird.htm

http://www.bichonfriseusa.com/index.htm#Educational%20mark (cut and paste)

I am not sure if this information answers all potential questions. Please let me know so I can elaborate if needed. Thanks.

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